The Art of Being Yourself: Leigh Bowery at Tate Modern

On February 27, Tate Modern opens an exhibition celebrating the provocative and groundbreaking career of Leigh Bowery, one of the 20th century’s most fearless and unconventional artists. For the first time, the gallery presents his extravagant and dazzling costumes alongside paintings, photography, and video, illustrating his lasting impact on art, fashion, and popular culture. Afisha.London has already visited Tate Modern and delves into the exhibition, which traces Bowery’s journey from a quiet suburb of Sunshine, Australia, to his rise as a global underground icon.

In his short yet remarkable life, only 33 years, Bowery forged a truly unique path. Known as an artist, performer, clubber, model, TV star, designer, and musician, he consistently refused to be pigeonholed or conform to conventional norms. He transformed clothing and makeup into forms of sculpture and painting, testing boundaries while creating a distinctive form of performance art that used the human body as a tool to rethink aesthetics, sexuality, and gender.

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From home to club and from stage to gallery, the exhibition invites viewers into the vibrant world of Bowery. After moving to London in 1980, he aimed to create a form of expression that would challenge cultural norms. Bowery gained international fame in 1985 when he opened his own club, Taboo — a space where he and his peers could freely explore their identities and experiment with representation. His work resonated within the city’s alternative club scene, as captured by photographers including David Swindells, Derek Ridgers, and Nick Knight.

Leigh Bowery! exhibition at Tate Modern. Photo: Afisha.London

For the first time, the exhibition showcases over 20 hand-crafted costumes by Lee, created in collaboration with his future wife, Nicola Rainbird, and corset maker Mr. Pearl. Fergus Greer’s photographs illustrate how Bowery brought his images to life, while the works of John Maybury and Bailey Walsh capture the spirit of creative collaboration. A visual and musical installation by director and DJ Geoffrey Hinton, designed specifically for the exhibition, recreates the atmosphere of the Taboo era, transporting viewers into the world of underground parties.

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Maintaining the energy of Taboo, Bowery transitioned from nightclubs to the world of dance and art. In 1984, he designed costumes for Michael Clarke’s productions, marking the beginning of a ten-year collaboration. The exhibition includes excerpts from Charles Atlas’s mockumentary Hail the New Puritan (1986) and the film Because We Must (1989).

In 1988, Bowery presented a performance in a commercial gallery. For five days, he stood behind glass with a two-way mirror, blurring the lines between body and art. Captured by artist Cerith Wyn Evans, this act challenged the very concept of observation. Dick Jewell’s film What’s Your Reaction to the Show? (1988) highlights the audience’s genuine responses to this daring experiment.

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A pivotal moment in Bowery’s career was his friendship with artist Lucian Freud during the late 1980s. Several portraits of Bowery, created by Freud and featured in the exhibition, represent a reimagining of the eccentric performer’s image. Influenced by this collaboration with Freud, Bowery increasingly used his body as an artistic medium, asserting that “Flesh is the most luxurious fabric.” Photographs by Nick Knight and films by Charles Atlas illustrate how he developed modern surrealism by transforming himself into an alien creature.

The exhibition concludes with a story about the musical project Minty, where Bowery intertwined his passion for performance, shock aesthetics, and humour. The stage also became a site for notable “births,” with Bowery tying Nichol Rainbird to himself and orchestrating her ‘birth’ on stage, thereby challenging notions of gender and drag culture. His final performance at London’s Freedom Café in November 1994 was attended by a young Alexander McQueen, underscoring Bowery’s influence not only on art but also on fashion.

Leigh Bowery! exhibition is on view at Tate Modern until August 31. Tickets and details

Cover photo: Afisha.London

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